We arrived at Prague Airport somewhat travel weary from our early start, and decided that for convenience we would take a taxi. This was a comfortable executive Mercedes, somewhat better than the average taxi back home, and the English speaking driver agreed a price to take us to our hostel in the centre of town. The ride took us, unexpectedly, down very straight roads through farmland. We were thankful not to have taken a bus, because if we had we would at this point be wondering whether we taken one into the capital of the Czech Republic or away from it.
Sure enough, after about twenty minutes the scenery became urban, and we crossed a bridge over the famous Vltava river. It was a view that I had seen in countless photographs, and which - perhaps due to the dismal grey weather - somehow failed to live up to my pre-conceived vision.
The taxi driver new exactly where our hostel was. It was called the Traveller's Hostel Dlouha, and what a dump it looked. We entered through rotting double doors, passing the stoned looking traveller laying on the floor, and took a left into the somewhat friendlier looking reception. We checked in, and were given a secret code to the upstairs rooms. We ascended the dimly lit, concrete stairs, complete with frighteningly visible lift shaft and workings, to the second floor where we found our room - number 216 if I remember correctly. It was much nicer that the rest of the buidling let on; a clean, comfortable three-bedded dorm.
Having dumped our stuff, we set out into town. A quick look on the map showed a route to the river, which we followed. The road along the river front in this part of town was picturesque enough - but it seemed strangely quiet. Back home, a road like this would be full of fancy commercial developments and luxury apartment complexes. None of that here, just a hospital and a police station. We passed by several bridges before deciding to head away from the river in search of some action.
We came across a pub and went in for a beer and a map and guidebook consultation. The beer was the exceptionally good Pilsner Urquell. Unlike most draught lager back home it tasted really good - even Natalie, who is not fond of lager, liked it. The map showed that Staromêstké Námêstí was some kind of main square in the historical centre, Staré Mêsto. Having had our beer, we turned out of the pub to find a choir singing to publicise a concert later that night. When they finished, we continued round the corner and found ourselves already in Staromêstké Námêstí!
This square is what people talk about when they say that Prague is the most beautiful city in the world. It is all the charm and architecture in one convenient package. The only downside is that it's also one of the most tourist infested parts of the city. Having taken in the views, we proceeded like typical tourists to enter the irresistably named Museum of Torture Instruments. This was an oddly fascinating place with creeky floorboards and a dazzling array of appalling looking devices each with a well translated label that seemed to take a macabre delight it in horrors it described. We decided that we were very glad not be living during the Inquisition, and headed back out into the town.
We explored randomly around the Staré Mêsto, stopping only for a so-called American Hot Dog (it was actually much larger and nicer than an American hot dog) before heading back to our hostel for a rest and a shower.
In the evening we went back along the river and into the old town where we found a nice looking (if rather posh) basement restaurant. Everyone except for us and a group of American visitors was well dressed. There was an adjoining bar from which piano music emerged. It was all very civilised, and the food when it finally arrived wasn't bad at all. I was determined to try Czech food - so ordered something with dumplings (which were very nice) and cabbage (which was rather too soaked in vinegar for my taste).
We finished the evening in a cafe/bar in Staromêstké Námêstí - right next to a fun looking nightclub complete with a video screen showing the dancing and revellry to be found within. The video seemed a bit out of tune with the numbers of people entering and leaving, but we decided that we would have to go clubbing the following night.
Next