Saturday 11th September

The 140 winds scenically along the river Merced for several miles before reaching the entrance to Yosemite National Park. Half a mile before the entrance I joined the queue. I'd headed to Vegas first to avoid the weekend rush at Yosemite, I didn't expect to spend as long as I did exploring that vicinity. Never mind, once past the gate the traffic all but vanished. The park was busy but not crowded.

I headed for the visitors' centre at Yosemite Village, but already the spectacular granite walls of the valley were offering up photo opportunities every ten feet. The whole of Yosemite is like that -- everywhere you look is a picture postcard.

I parked up and found an information booth, where I quiclky learnt that a system of buses served the valley, that Yosemite falls was dry but Veror sp? and Nevada falls were running, and that the movie at the visitors' centre is a good introduction to the park. I took the shuttle bus over there and the driver also sung the praises of the movie. So after looking at the exhibits, including a stuffed bear with warnings about keeping human food away from them (apparently once they get a taste for a nice ham sandwich they realise, like an enlighted vegetarian, that leaves are not all they're cracked up to be -- unfortunately this means they become agressive and dismantle cars to get at human food and have to be shot) I went into the movie auditorium.

The lights went down but the movie did not start. Most of the audience and I tried again at the next showing but once again the machines failed. Hopefully it will be working tomorrow.

After some lunch I got on the bus to stop number 16. I stopped at stop 11, from where there was a good view of the Half Dome, a huge domed pinnacle that was chopped in half by an advancing glacier a few million years ago. From stop 16, Happy Isles, I hiked the mile or so uphill (uphill miles count for more) to the bridge from where Vernor sp? falls is visible. It was quite hard work, but not hard enough to feel a real sense of accomplishment. There were some excellent views over to top of the forest and out towards the valley walls, though.

I wanted to continue up to the top of the falls, but I also wanted to get to Glacier Point in time for sunset, so I headed back and got on the bus back to stop 1, the car park.

The drive up to Glacier Point was along a steep road through forrest and took about an hour. At the top it was a short walk to the point itself. I was just in time, already a shadow was advancing up the flat face of Half Dome. The view was breathtaking, sheer granite faces in every direction, and forest directly below. Car parks, roads, a swimming pool and the river could also be seen. To the right of half dome were the waterfalls I'd hiked halfway to earlier.

I took pictures of some strangers, got them to take a picture of me, and watched as the sun sank, the light became redder and the shadow advanced. After that it soon became cold, so I got back in my car. Driving back down through the dark forest with Zero 7 in the CD player was sublime.

I arrived back at the bug lodge just in time to miss dinner. I've arranged to stay an extra night so I can have another full day at Yosemite and hopefully get off the beaten track a bit.

Day 10