Tuesday September 7th
I wouldn't necessarily advise going to the Grand Canyon as a day trip from Las Vegas, but I've just proved it can be done. It was not terribly well planned, I'd intended to go to the tourist information place at the convention centre but the staff were on strike and picketing outside. So I looked on my California map that just about showed the edge of Grand Canyon national park and determined that the only possible road to take was the I-15 north. I figured there would be signs.
I reached the town of Mesquite about 60 miles from Vegas and near the border of Nevada and Arizona and hadn't seen any signs yet so I stopped at a gas station and bought maps, including one of the Grand Canyon national park. It was then I discovered that most of the action is on the South rim of the canyon, including the airport from where the helicopter rides leave. But to get to the South rim I would have needed to take the 93 South from Vegas. Without driving back the 60 miles I had to settle for the North rim. It didn't look like there was as much there, but at least I would get to see the Canyon.
It was a long way, I clocked about 270 miles, and there was actual navigation involved. I took the I-15 to Utah exit 16 (stopping briefly at the exit 1 Utah visitors centre and scenic viewpoint), then route 9 to Hurricane, right onto route 59 which became Arizona route 389 all the way to Fredonia, then right onto the 89A to Jacob Lake, and right again onto the 67 which led all the way to the canyon. Remarkably I managed all that without so much as a wrong turn, even the parts that went through towns and where the routes made turns! Perhaps this means I am getting used to the American road and signage peculiarities.
The scenery in Southern Utah and Northern Arizona was spectacular. It was worth the drive just to see it. It was mostly desert, with tall, flat, red and orange rock formations, straight from cowboy films and Star Trek alien planets. I passed through the town of Colorado City, founded 1985. Imagine a town founded just 20 years ago! Once I reached the Kaibab National Forest the landscape turned suddenly to (surprise!) forest, and the road became much more windy.
The forest park is adjacent to the canyon park, and the land around the canyon is forest too. You wouldn't expect to find a big deep hole in the ground here. At the entrance I bought a National Parks Pass for fifty bucks; it is good for all parks in the country for a year. If I visit Yosemite and Sequoia I'll save at least $10, and I may get chance to use it again.
There were still some miles to go before reaching the lodge which seemed to be the focal point here. Quite unexpectedly I caught sight of the canyon through the trees. I stopped to look but couldn't get a good view. I parked at the lodge and looked around. The lodge is a bit like a hotel except that the rooms are really cabins scattered nearby. There is a vistors' centre, a restaurant, a deli, a gift shop and the sun deck.
The sun deck is where I got my first proper look at the canyon. It is spectacular. It is so deep you can't see to the bottom, it stretches as far as you can see, and it has beautiful shapes and colours. I could see two lookout points teetering on the edge of the cliff so I set out to explore them. On one I got a gentleman to take my photo. As usual when I talk to people here he immediately asked where I was from. England / I thought so / Which part? / etc.
I had dinner at the deli, and then set off along the trail to Bright Angel Point, another spectacular lookout point with about a 270 degree view. I reached here in time for the sunset, during which the red light accentuates the reddness of the rocks to remarkable effect. After taking in the view for a while I headed for home.
I took the exact reverse route back, once again avoiding getting lost even though it was dark. I had to take special care in the forest because the local deer population apparently thinks it's a good idea to stand around by (and occasionally in) the road at night. Luckily their fur shines up well in headlights. Is this an evolutionry trait?
Once again I got bored of the indie and rock stations on Sirius, and for the last hour or so listened to Roadhouse, a country music station with the tag line, "crying into your beer is not only allowed, it's encouraged." My friends will laugh at me, but there's something very *right* about driving along the highway at night, singing along to
On the road again
Going places I ain't ever been
Seeing things that I might never see again
I can't wait to get on the road again
As I approached Las Vegas I was treated to the view of the city lights from above. Never before was it so apparent to me that Vegas is an artificial oasis in the middle of nowhere.